I dedicate this post to the fashion shows held in New York between Sunday and Monday. The truth is that neither me has thrilled especially, while many of the designers who have presented their collections on these two days are heavyweights of the American runway, and their collections are always the most anticipated.
CAROLINA HERRERA I did not like the collection of Carolina Herrera, as not touched me nor in the two latest collections. I have made a selection of what I think is most beautiful and wearable (photos above). Venezuelan designer said to have been inspired by the final years of the Decade of the 50, to me, the truth, her collection reminds me more the 40 years, but even so I do not like.
Little imaginative, and occasionally a tad tacky, despite being directed to women of the high society, I agree with the criticism of Cathy Horyn in the New York Times, is a irrelevant collection. In addition, I can’t imagine not to it, nor to their daughters, all common in lists of the most elegant, dressed in this clothing, with exceptions, as photos costumes.
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG like Carolina Herrera, Diane von Furstenberg is a designer made to and from high society. The biggest milestone in the world of fashion is the creation in the in 1972 the wrap dress, stamping, point and adjusted at the waist. That kind of dress does not lack in any of its collections since then, and reinvents it again and again, both for the day (the Middle photo, above), as for the night (photo on the right).
The rest of the collection, which has named “Working Woman”, is based on costumes of jacket and pants that combine seasonal fabrics: type shirt lumberjack, tartan, houndstooth, wool plain color, with little success, for my taste. Are much more attractive the vesidos, especially at night.
DKNY the second line of Donna Karan, on the verge of brand new online store, is directed to a young audiences, both women and men. The designs are simple, easy and very similar all of them. The base is black, but the contrast with other colors. It has not been bad, but it’s nothing otherworldly. More like me when she gets Bohemian. Although it seems, it seems so far, boho style comes to an end.
DOO. RI Doo.Ri Chung collection has been one that liked me, because it has been one of the more different, in two days in which usual jet set American designers have been the main protagonists. Feminine and little pretentious.
He is also inspired by decades, “Choose what” they say in criticism of Style.com, but the result is actual, perhaps a little heavy sometimes, but elegant and refined. I love the final dress, above right.
LUELLA designer Luella Bartley has become a favorite among models, stylists and celebrities. It’s news, from makes thing a month, for his collaboration with Target, which has designed a collection of “low cost”, as Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney have for H & M.
This collection, which has been received as a hit by the young and American teenagers, is inspired, as it has presenting in New York, in the 1970s rock bands, like The Clash. And type Chanel, combines it with outfits and pictures pichis Scotch that they give the touch of naivety. The mix is fun, although I don’t know if to go as well every day, and all parts.
MARC JACOBS the first line of the American designer is always the most awaited appointment in New York, and the most lauded by the critics, and this year, of course, there has been less. Suzy Menkes demolishes praise from the Herald Tribune. To me, took me a bit of input.
The first two photos, up to the left, corresponding to the first two designs that have emerged on the catwalk. I’ve seen the first and I entered heat, high heat, but with the second… . Glub. Go wrap! how much will it cost? It is true that something then improves the thing. At least the effect of models as of the photos on the right, above, is more, more beautiful, even elegant, and, altogether, more wearable.
Marc Jacobs told the press on the collection “Discusses the places where I’ve been, people I know, world leaders and the winter”. Read this not me has pulled out of doubt, the truth. But I recognize the combination of dresses and skirts from fabrics, in principle reserved for the night, over wool trousers, accompanied by point jerseys no me disguta. Especially for when cold does. I do not know if it is really comfortable to go dressed as well.
Less complicated, and warm, they are his designs for the night. Continues with the overlays, but it is limited to leggings and dresses. For the red carpet, Jacobs dresses are very usual in it, it remains committed to the layers of tulle, the gleam and the semitransparencias. But, this time, all in black, and wearing gloves, which look more like soldering, which to provide glamour.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA the other heavyweight in New York is the Dominican Oscar de la Renta, considered, quite rightly, by the American press as a “couturier” in the city of the skyscrapers. His collection has been, as always, very elegant, and very very for the red carpet, the tea rooms, meals and charitable parties, and events of this type.
I’ve taken less their Brocade and Russian-inspired embroideries, and shelters and multicolored dresses type kaftan. And, although the result is elegant, the eighties roll of some of their designs, as well as the combination of black with tan dark colors, not helpful. There have been, that Yes, three of his basic classics: white blouse, black dress, cocktail, or little black dress, and a battery of evening dresses, of which my favorite is the top right.
More cocktail and evening dresses, that sure it will allow more than one maintain positions on the lists of the most elegant, next winter. All in a line reminiscent of designs Couture of 50-60 years, especially, the pattern in blue and with game pants. Very Balenciaga. And one long and bright, more ‘american style’, that also often miss in their parades.
TULEHBryan Bradley, Tuleh has also made one of the favorite of New York, as Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer, and some celebrities rich heiresses. I do not know if with this collection, very 40’s, (and very Roland Mouret also), will have much success on the red carpet next winter. To me, except numbered dresses, such as the of the second and third photo above, thought me, as a whole, soda and less sensual than previous collections.
VENA CAVA and, finally, Vena Cava. A firm that had not heard in my life, but that it has made an original, very theatrical presentation, the models posing in imaginary, as a living room, a bedroom or dressing rooms. All very feminine and romantic, and rather Bohemian also. The clothes are very wearable, nothing that has not been done before, but nice, and much less serious than most of the parades I mentioned today.
On Thursday I continue with shows on Tuesday and Wednesday.